Species Overview

  • Common names: Royal Python, Ball Python

  • Scientific name: Python regius

  • Origin: West and Central Africa (grasslands, savannahs and forest edges)

  • Lifespan: 20–30 years in captivity, depending on husbandry.

  • Adult size: 3–5 feet (females larger than males)

  • Temperament: Generally docile, calm, and slow-moving; can be shy.

  • Activity: Primarily nocturnal and crepuscular

Housing and Enclosure Setup

Enclosure Size

  • Juveniles: Minimum 2ft vivarium

  • Adults: Minimum 4x2x2ft — larger if possible

  • Must be escape-proof, well-ventilated and easy to clean.

  • Provide secure hides at both warm and cool ends.

Substrate

  • Ideal substrates: Top soil, coco husk, orchid bark or a bioactive mix.

  • Avoid sand or pine/cedar wood chips.

  • Maintain a slightly damp area (under a hide) to aid shedding.

Furnishing & Enrichment

  • Provide two hides (warm and cool zones), climbing branches and décor for security.

  • Include a water bowl large enough for the snake to soak in.

  • Add enrichment occasionally, such as rearranged décor or new hides.

Temperature, Lighting & Humidity

Temperature

  • Warm side: 32–35 °C

  • Cool side: 26–28 °C

  • Night: 20–22 °C

  • Always control heat with a thermostat, use dimmers or pulse stats depending on which bulb you are using.

  • Use deep heats or ceramic heaters; non-light-emitting bulbs are best as they ensure a warm night temperature.

Lighting

  • Royal Pythons are nocturnal but benefit from low-level UVB (2.5/7%) or an LED for a good circadian rhythm.

  • Provide a 12-hour day/night cycle.

  • Ensure heat bulb fixtures are guarded to prevent burns.

Humidity

  • Maintain 60–70% relative humidity.

  • Increase to 70–80% during shedding.

  • Mist lightly as needed, ensuring the enclosure dries between sprays to avoid any scale rot.

  • Provide a humid hide with damp moss or substrate.

Diet & Feeding

  • Feed appropriately sized thawed frozen rodents. Rats are always the most nutritionally beneficial; however, it’s always great to mix their diet up with things like mice and chicks.

  • Size guideline: prey should be roughly equal to the snake’s widest body part.

    Feeding Frequency

  • Hatchlings: Every 5–7 days.

  • Juveniles: Every 7–14 days.

  • Adults: Every 14-30 days, depending on food size.

    • Feed individually in their enclosure unless the snake is particularly food-oriented.

    • Remove any uneaten prey within 24 hours.

    Feeding Notes

    • Always thaw frozen food fully before offering.

    • Use feeding tongs to avoid associating hands with food.

    • Do not handle the snake for at least 48 hours before and after feeding to prevent regurgitation.

    Water & Hydration

    • Provide a sturdy bowl of clean water large enough for soaking.

    • Change water daily or sooner if it’s dirty.

    Handling & Behaviour

    • Allow new snakes 1–2 weeks to settle before handling.

    • Support the snake’s full body and avoid sudden movements.

    • Handle for short periods (10–15 minutes) 2–3 times per week.

    • Avoid handling when in blue or shedding, or within 48 hours after feeding.

    • Stress signs: hissing, bluff striking, tight balling or refusal to eat.

    Cleaning & Maintenance

    • Daily: Spot clean faeces, urates and change water.

    • Weekly: Wipe down surfaces with F10 disinfectant.

    • Monthly: Deep clean entire enclosure and replace substrate.

    Health & Welfare Monitoring

    Common Health Issues

    • Shedding issues: Increase humidity; offer a moist hide or soak.

    • Respiratory infections: Caused by low temperature or poor ventilation — seek vet care.

    • Mites: Strip the enclosure and replace the substrate with a clean paper towel, and remove any porous decor. Give us a call for some advice.

    • Feeding refusal: Often seasonal; check temperature and stress levels.